Few images scream Saigon like the classic District 1 market, Cho Ben Thanh. There's a lot to see here during the day but if you've not been there for the night market you're missing out. The building at Ben Thanh Market is closed but in the early evening vendors and restaurants set up their shops on the streets on either side. One of these make-shift restaurants, Hai Lua Food Countryside has become a mandatory stop for us while in HCMC. Evidently, for a lot of others too.
To find Hai Lua at the Night Market, walk down Phan Boi Chau street on the east/right-hand side of Cho Ben Thanh. You'll see Hai Lua on the left (against the market building) about half way back. They'll be easy to spot... look for the giant smoking grill filled with red fish, Snapper I think, set up right on the street. Hai Lua has a lot of great food, but it is the thought of the grilled red fish that keeps me longing for my return. Do yourself a favor...
Eat it!